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Hi
I will shortly be ordering a fr sport EVO and was wondering if you think the £199 for this treatment outside and in is worth it ?
 

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Personally I wouldn't bother with the stuff. I spent my money getting it done properly by a detailer. I had all the exterior stage 1 polished and clay barred to remove swirls of which apparently the bumpers were worse and any contaminants and iron fallout, fusso wax coat, all the glass, wheels and plastics protected and the tyres sealed. The interior was fabric protector on the seats, roof lining and carpet then dash plastics protected. It took 2 days for this to be completed. If you google supaguard and how it's applied at the dealerships you might reconsider.
 

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Forgot to mention the interior protection is a product by gyeon.
 

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Is it worth 200 quid?

Screenshot_20180308-102716.png
 

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Dolphinfriendly1012 said:
Is it worth 200 quid?
My dealer is charging me £300!!!

However, I've asked different dealers about different brand treatmens when getting different cars, and they all said that the "car would be worth more at the end of your PCP" because they applied it... personally I'm not 100% convinced by that statement but there is probably some elements of truth in it.

Also, the Supagard kit in that pictures is listed at £100 on the Supagard website, so you're getting the treatment on top of the kit price.
 

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Dolphinfriendly1012 said:
Personally I wouldn't bother with the stuff. I spent my money getting it done properly by a detailer. I had all the exterior stage 1 polished and clay barred to remove swirls of which apparently the bumpers were worse and any contaminants and iron fallout, fusso wax coat, all the glass, wheels and plastics protected and the tyres sealed. The interior was fabric protector on the seats, roof lining and carpet then dash plastics protected. It took 2 days for this to be completed. If you google supaguard and how it's applied at the dealerships you might reconsider.
Dolphin, is the work you had done the same as paint protection? Or something that can be done on top? I've had colleagues at work say that when having cars professionally detailed the ones with paint protection always came up nicer than the ones without.
 

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I have had 4 Skodas prior to my Arona, two were treated (both free) and two were not. Other than the bag of goodies in the boot I honestly couldn't tell the difference. Needless to say I did not have my Arona treated as I will probably trade it in at about 3 years. I do not believe it makes any difference to trade in values ( just like adding most options).
 

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I got mine included in the deal - had an 05 plate smart forfour with autoglym life shine already on it and I have to say it was glossier than those without it ..
I wouldn't pay for it but got it included in the amazing deal money knocked off when I ordered my Arona x
 

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I had the car coated in fusso wax, google it, which is a protective wax coat that last up to 12 months. If you wanted longer then ceramic coating is hard wearing but I don't plan on keeping it long enough to justify the cost.
 

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My Golf had the Life Shine done when I brought it and that was 300-400£, and it has made NO real difference to the resale value maybe a 50/100£ but only because the car looks well cared for.
So i am not going to bother. My car previous to the Golf looked as good if better, and I had that detailed first and then I kept up the shine myself.
Used to spray off as much of the dirt, then using 2 buckets, 1 x wash and 1 x rinse bucket, would have a warm soapy wash and clean water rinse for the washmit, then spray off.
I then dry using large microfibre towels. Then using Sonax premium Paint cleaner, then apply Sonax Premium Carnauba wax.
used AutoGlym Alloy wheel cleaner, and tyre and rubber protector.
Interior, Autogym interior shampoo. But I am changing over to Chemical Guys cleaner and protector for the Alcantara seats.
I will give the Golf a good wax and interior clean before it goes in May. Will use the Autoglym wet wax, which is really quick and easy.
and works well with the life shine.
So You don't need to spend out on these dealer ones, I would side with Dolphin on this one. Get it detailed and then keep up the shine yourself, or do your own detailing. Loads of instructional videos on the web.
 

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I'm a self employed valeter/detailer. I'm trained in both supaguard and AG Lifeshine. I personally don't believe in the stuff. It won't do any harm but don't believe it protects as long or as well as they say. I've bought a bottle of glass coat sealant from a company in America which basically leaves a clear film over the paint. You need to know how to apply it as once it dries it doesn't come off for a long time unless you scratch it off. I will be applying to our Arona which we should hopefully have within a couple of weeks.
If you enjoy cleaning your car then try a good quality claybar before applying any polishes/ waxes as you will be amazed at how many contaminants are bonded to the paint of a new car. Once clayed the paint will feel as smooth as glass. It sounds scary rubbing clay over the paint but just follow the instructions and you will wonder why you didn't use it earlier.
 

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Hi Mandaroo, Ive been looking into getting a clay bar, and wonder how long it lasts, when do you have to replace it.
As it will eventually become contaminated and end up causing lines and scratches in the surface?
How big a clay bar would you need to do all of the Arona?
And do you have recommendations of which clay bar to buy, as these must vary in quality vs price.
Would you recommend using a DA Polisher? with something like a meguiers compound to get out the swirls and fine scratch marks?

Thanks.
 

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I would suggest you try a claybar from somewhere like Halfords as they tend to stock softer clays which are easier and safer to use for those with little to no experience. They work well especially on new paint as the contamination is relatively low on new cars so no need for a hard clay. Depending on brand they come in various sizes. You are better off not using the whole claybar just in case you drop it on the ground as it would all need to be binned. You should be able to clay a new car with one bar about the size of a small bar of soap. Just keep folding it every time the surface looks dirty. The contaminates then go into the clay leaving the surface clean again to carry on. Only use light pressure and make sure you use a lubricant such as a quick detailing spray. This helps the clay to glide over the paint if the clay grabs you ain't using enough lube. Just try doing one panel first then maybe use AG super resin polish followed by AG HD wax. (These are what tend to use as they work well together.) Then you can compare that panel to the rest of the car to see if you notice a difference.
As far as DA polishers go I think they are good for novices as you can't really do any damage as they don't build up heat on the paint and stop or slow down when too much pressure is applied. Again you could try it after the clay to see if it has improved the paint. Just remember what ever method/brands you use never rush it. Take your time and you should get a good result. New cars are always the easiest.
 

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Forgot to say that I have tried meguires clay from Halfords many years ago when they first stocked it. It came in two small bars and did a full car with very good results. I think they might do a full kit that includes the lubricant.
 

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I will definitely get some clay bar. I was having a look around the net last night, and found out you can even clay bar your windows.
and then get a proper glass sealer.
I have used DODO Juice clearly Menthol Glass cleaner, which works ok, but you have to go over a few times on the inside to get it really clean.
Also I use rain-X and that does work well for keeping a clear windscreen in the rain.
But think I will try a glass sealant from the Chemical guys or Meguiars, something a bit more professional. They recommended using the waffle weave microfibre cloths, which i have a few of these already.
So Will be a lot of work but think it will be worth the effort.
All I need now is the may NEW ARONA.. LOL
 

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I was just looking through some of my clays. A good one to try is Bilt Hamber. (Ebay have plenty) just choose a soft or posibly medium grade. They also do different sizes.
Just another bit of advice whilst stocking up on cleaning products make sure to get a grit guard for your bucket. They really work. Also get a decent wash mitt such as the Wooky Fist (Google it) expensive but if just using it for your own vehicle it will last ages as long as its kept clean. It will help prevent swirls especially if you have a dark paint.
 

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Thanks for the info @Mandaroo
Could you recommend a particular detailing spray for wiping down with a towel after washing?
Thank you.
 

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@Ian.s
Meguiars ultimate detailer spray is a good one but to be fair there are many quick detailers out there and many seem to do a similar job. Everyone has their preferences. If you go for a big brand name then they will tend to be pretty good. Make sure you get a good quality large drying towel. The bigger they are the more water they hold, and never use fabric softener when you put it in the wash (or any other microfiber polishing cloths for that mater) as it prevents absorption.
 
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